Why Silver Tarnishes Around Gemstones

Sterling silver is rarely pure silver. Most rings are stamped 925, meaning 92.5 per cent silver and 7.5 per cent copper or another metal added for strength. That copper is what gives silver its workable toughness, and it is also what tarnishes. Sulphur compounds in the air, in perfume, in wool, in rubber bands and even in some foods react with the copper to form silver sulphide, a soft yellow-brown film that darkens to black over time.

Around a gemstone, tarnish is more noticeable because it collects in the small spaces you cannot easily reach: the gallery beneath the stone, the gaps between claws, the millgrain edges of a bezel. It is not damage to the silver itself, and it lifts away easily with the right care. The difficulty is that the products which strip tarnish fastest are often the ones that harm the stone sitting in the middle of it.

A Gentle Everyday Routine

Most tarnish on a well-worn ring can be prevented rather than removed. A few habits make a real difference:

• Dress last. Apply perfume, moisturiser, sunscreen and hairspray first, let them dry, then put your rings on. Alcohol and oils in cosmetics speed up tarnish and leave a dulling film on the stone.
• Wipe after wearing. A quick rub with a dry cotton or microfibre cloth removes skin oils and moisture before they settle. This takes ten seconds and saves hours of cleaning later.
• Remove for wet work. Washing up, gardening, showering and swimming all expose silver to chemicals, chlorine and abrasives. Chlorine is especially unkind to silver and to stones such as turquoise and pearl.
• Use a polishing cloth carefully. Impregnated silver cloths are excellent on plain silver, but the polishing compound can lodge in the crevices around a stone. Use a separate soft cloth on the gemstone itself, and keep the treated cloth for the band and the outer edges of the setting.

Deep Cleaning Without the Dips

When your ring needs more than a wipe, work gently and in stages. Fill a small bowl with lukewarm water and one drop of mild washing-up liquid. Soak the ring for two or three minutes, no longer, then lift it out and brush the setting with a soft baby toothbrush, using small circular strokes under the stone and around each claw. Rinse in clean lukewarm water and pat dry with a lint-free cloth. Leave it on a towel for an hour before putting it away, so any moisture trapped under the setting can evaporate.

For tarnish on the band, use a cotton bud dipped in a little silver polish or a thin paste of bicarbonate of soda and water. Work it onto the silver only, keeping well away from the stone, then rinse thoroughly. Never let polish dry in the setting, where it sets hard and looks like grey grit. If tarnish has crept right under the stone, it is usually worth a jeweller's attention rather than a home remedy, since lifting the stone is sometimes the only way to reach it properly.

Stones That Need Extra Care

Some gemstones simply should not meet water, chemicals or friction. Porous and water-sensitive stones include opal, pearl, turquoise, lapis lazuli, malachite, amber, coral and jet. These can absorb liquids, discolour, crack or lose their polish. Many treated stones are also vulnerable: emeralds are commonly oiled or resin-filled, and dyed agate, dyed pearls and fracture-filled diamonds can all be affected by solvents and heat.

For rings set with any of these, clean the silver with a barely damp cloth and dry immediately, and clean the stone with a dry soft cloth only. A slightly warm, dry environment and very little handling is the kindest approach.

What to Avoid Altogether

• Silver dips. These rely on acids and thiourea to strip tarnish in seconds. They can pit silver, attack the surface of porous stones and strip dyes and fillers.
• Ultrasonic and steam cleaners. They loosen stones over time and can damage treated gems. Never use them on opals, pearls, emeralds or filled diamonds.
• Toothpaste and abrasive creams. They scratch silver and dull softer gemstones.
• Bleach, ammonia and vinegar. All are corrosive to silver or to specific stones, and vinegar etches pearl and turquoise.
• Wearing rings in pools and hot tubs. Chlorine and salt water tarnish silver and can degrade stone treatments.

Storing and Travelling With Your Rings

Store silver-gemstone rings somewhere cool, dry and dark. Bathrooms are the worst place, since humidity accelerates tarnish. A lined jewellery box with separate compartments keeps stones from scratching one another, and an anti-tarnish strip or a small sealed pouch will slow oxidation considerably. Do not wrap rings in tissue paper for long periods, as the paper can hold moisture against the metal.

When travelling, carry each ring in its own soft pouch rather than loose in a bag, and take them off before swimming or applying sunscreen. A yearly check of the claws by a jeweller is also worth the trouble: a loose setting causes more damage than tarnish ever will. With gentle, consistent care, silver keeps its soft brightness and your gemstones stay as clear and vivid as the day you chose them.